TRENDS

Military

Futurism

TRENDS   Multilayer

Rough knitting

COOL HUNTING

Max, student
"I love poetry and art. my style is romantic, I think. I Love wearing cashmere and wool things, I love natural fabrics. Actually, I dont put much attention on what I wear. Comfort is more important".

Vlad and Lilla

Lilla: "We love casual. We think this is the most appropriate style for the city, for youngs. You know what I like most of the fashion nowadays? I can wear my boyfriends cloth!))"

Dmitry, web-designer

" I love casual, but I love mix styles all together. I like creating my own new style every day, combining classic and grunge, casual with punks elements. I feel like an artist changing my image!" 

COOL HUNTING

Marie, student
"I love contrast and bright colours. I like combination of strict lines and abstract forms. I can be different every day, my image depends on my mood...and it makes me happy!"

Helena, an artist

"I like romantic style, "calm and serene" colours. I love nature and people. My style is really pacific (if I can say that)) and my garment is a mirror of my soul"

Katrine, student

"I like monochrome colourse and black. It is really easy to wear black cloth: you dont need to spend much time chosing what to wear today. Since Im always short of time and my life style is vey active, black is really helpful) But I nevere firget about bright accents)"

FASHION CAPITALS

London Fashion Week

The idea appeared in 1984 in a West London car park, with catwalk shows, exhibitions combining the strong industry focus that it has maintained to this day. The show was successful until the nineties, when decline meant that only a few of designers could show their collections in a several rooms at the Ritz, in 1992. But in 1993, LFW recoveried its trade name vitality when Naomi Campbell appeared topless on the catwalk for the Philip Treacy show. It continued to prosper with Stella McCartney's successful collection 1995 Spring/Summer.
The fashion industry and anorexia were the main points of the late nineties, when a size 14 Sophie Dahl proudly walked down the catwalk and caused debate. Later, in 2009, the British Fashion Council moved a resuscitited London Fashion Week to its current venue in Somerset House. By 2010, London Fashion Week had almost £ 100 million in orders (shoes,handbags,accessories and garments).
Nowadays, London Fashion Week includes 68 “official” shows and huge number of unofficial offsite events.Over 5,000 industry visitors attend London Fashion Week every year, including students, designers, buyers and press. In 2010, London Fashion Week became one the сentral fashion event in the Internet; now we can see the entire fashion weeks’ worth over the web. 

Image above: Shows The Designer of the Year award, which was created in 1984 – the first recipient of it was Katharine Hamnett, who is best known for her famous protest T-shirts.

Here, Hamnett wore a “58% Don’t Want Pershing” T-shirt (in reference to America’s controversial Pershing II guided missile being deployed in West Germany), to meet Margaret Thatcher in 1984 at a 10 Downing Street reception for Fashion Week Designers.

Hussein Chalayan’s table dress from his autumn/winter 2001-2 show – during which models took off chair covers to dress themselves before using the furniture itself – was the epitome of conceptual fashion.

Paris Fashion Week

Before Fashion Weeks became the displays they are today, fashion ruled, doubtless, in the French salons. The fashion presentation idea dates back to 1858, when Charles Fredrick Worth first improved the concept of presentation his clientele a pre-prepared assortment of original designs (a collection). Moreover, his designs on real,live women were earth-shattering and shoked the audience. Both were extremely new ideas at the time.
In 1868, Worth promoted the creation of the Chambre Syndicale de la Confection et de la Couture pour Dames et Fillettes, a commercial association whose purpose was to improve the French fashion industry. One of the most remarkable
 roles of the association was to legally adjust the term “haute couture” – registered members of the Chambre Syndicale could only use this meaning. Minimum number of looks was set by organization for granted membership designers.

Into the 20th century Paris maintained the status of world fashion capital, securing the tradition of fashion presentations in salons or in private residences. The presentations became more and more popular and improved, including music, photography,sets and sophisticated staging and setsi. Innovative designers such as Paul Poiret called them fashion “fêtes” and thus the foundation of the modern fashion show. As the world looked almost exclusively to Paris for fashion inspiration, International fashion magazines from all over the world put chic styles being shown at these fêtes on their pages. Fashion and innovations (and photography) showed their amaizing union from that period until the dawn of World War II.

Paul Poiret and his models, 1925

Шт 1943 the course of fashion history changed. During the World War II , fashion journalists couldnt travel to Paris for fashion presentations.Due to the Nazi occupation the shows being cancelled in France. Later, a fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert used this opportunity to "transfer" the attention of the fashion industry from Paris to America, in order to rehabilitate prestige and the reputation of local American designers on the world fashion scene.

New York Fashion Week

Using her knowledge and experience in New York, Lambert could combine together a showcase of  designers from America for the national and international media.Time magazine published the information about the payment of expenses of any out-of-town journalist who went to New York to attend Press Week. There were 53 designer presentations held at the Plaza Hotel, and parallel to today’s shows, every editor got press information and catwalk photos as part of the package.
Lambert’s purpose to change the reputation of American fashion industry was achieved successfully. The paged of premier fashion magazines were full of collections of designers from America.
She invited a lot of paparazzi to New York shows, and advertised that “Press Week” was coming to the city.

Press Week New York, 1943.

The first Fashion Calendar was launched by Ruth Finely in 1944. She was tasked with composition of all of the week’s shows into one complete guide. This final guide was basic for combining together the fashion and beauty industries, including manufactures, buyers, editors and designers around a single route. 

Dior Show, 1955

For the next thirty years, designers continued to represent their collections two times a year (February and September) in a show that would eventually become famous as New York Fashion Week.
Fashion Week continued permanent through the years, and in the ’70s and ’80s, shows condacted in unusual spaces around New York like galleries, lofts, restaurants and nightclub. Howaver, in 1990 after an incident during a Michael Kors fashion show in a loft, the tide shifted again. When bits of the plaster ceiling crumbled onto the  heads of public, Fern Mallis, then executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (the organizing body of Fashion Week), decided it was a right time for a change. She sad  “The general sentiment was, ‘We love fashion but we don’t want to die for it.’

Milan Fashion Week

As Lambert’s success in New York was so impressive, Italian aristocrat Giovanni Battista Giorgini took the possibility to turn to advantage and invite national paparazzi for a preview of the season’s collections. In 1952, in a pivotal time for Italian fashion, he created a series of shows in the famous Palazzo Pitti of Florence. Italian fashion was a capital of the fashion world, with Emilio Pucci and Missoni innovations and experience an amazing new base for their designs. Soon, the stunning success of the collections more surpassing the capacity of any place for fashion shows in Florence, and the city’s small airport could not arrange the influx of fashion royalty coming from many countries around the world. Finally, it was decided to move the event to Milan. In 1975, Milan presented its first “Settimana Della Moda” (Fashion Week) calendar of fashion shows.

Milan Fashion Week Spring 2012

RANGE PLANNING
After you have chosen the direction of your collection, decided what colour palette you need to have an composition of the collection - what kind of garment the collection will consist of.. In fashion system is a range planning.The the vital things are target market and the season. I have made a range plan for my collection. Thre is an example:
Target market middle class/ high class
Season Spring/Summer

Type	Colour	Range	No. Styles
Jackets	Beige	600-1300	3
Jackets	blue	450-1000	3
Jackets	white	500-1200	4
Type	Colour	Range	No. Styles
Trousers	white	500-1000	4
Trousers	beige	450-800	3
Trousers	blue	600-1200	3
Type	Colour	Range	No. Styles
dresses	beige	750-1500	3
dresses	black	600-1200	2
dresses	blue	900-1700	2
Type	Colour	Range	No. Styles
skirt	black	400-800	2
skirt	Print (white/blue)	700-1000	3
skirt	white	450-700	2
Type	Colour	Range	No. Styles
shirts	white	350-500	1
shirts	black	500-700	2
shirts	Print (beige/black)	700-1000	2
Type	Colour	Range	No. Styles
Tops	blue	350-500	2
Tops	Print (black/white)	450-700	3
Tops	white	500-1200	3
Type	Colour	Range	No. Styles
Accessories	gold	150-300	1
Accessories	silver	300-500	1
Accessories	leather	500-100	1

The Fashion Calendar

Fashion Calendar
(Womenswear)
The 4 major fashion weeks for A/W take place in February and in September for S/S

Fabric Exhibitions
(For coming season SS15/AW15)